How the yardage converter works
Type the length from your pattern, a shop listing or a remnant label and choose its unit. Decimals, a comma as the decimal mark and fractions such as 2 3/8 all work. You get the same length in yards, metres, centimetres, inches and feet, plus what to ask for at the cutting table: shops cut in steps, so the amount to buy is rounded up to the next ⅛ yard or 10 cm.
Step 2 answers the classic problem: the pattern gives yardage for one width, but the fabric you want comes in another. The converter keeps the area of cloth the same, so the new length is the old length × the pattern width ÷ your width. For example, 2¼ yd of 45 in fabric holds as much cloth as 1 11/16 yd of 60 in fabric (2.25 × 45 ÷ 60), so you would buy 1¾ yd. The table repeats the sum for the usual bolt widths. Enter the width you can really use: selvedges are kept out of pattern pieces, and some fabrics narrow a little when pre-washed.
When the area answer is too optimistic
- Nap and one-way prints. Velvet, corduroy, faux fur and prints with an up and a down need every piece pointing the same way, so pieces cannot be turned to nest. Pattern envelopes list separate “with nap” amounts for this reason.
- Stripes, plaids and big motifs. Matching them at the seams uses up part of a repeat for each main piece.
- Long pieces. A 40 in skirt panel stays 40 in long on any width. Enter your longest piece and the answer never drops below it.
- Narrower fabric. A piece wider than the new fabric, or wider than half of it when folded, needs a new layout.
Add a margin with the extra menu, try the garment fabric estimator for a typical range, or lay out your real pieces in the pattern layout estimator.